Region: Niagara Peninsula

Niagara Falls conjures images of barrel's and honeymooners. The best and most beautiful that nature can offer abuts the most tasteless that man can offer. It's almost like the planners of Niagara Falls, faced with such awe-inspiring natural beauty, just shook their heads in dejection and decided they could never compete, so might as well use neon.

But away from the garishly lit avenues of Niagara Falls Clifton Hill, past the suburban neighborhoods of the workers, lies one of the best wine regions in North America, if not the world. At least, that's the way I feel.

Then again, in Niagara, it's all about the ice wine and I love ice wine. For those of you who have never sampled this ambrosia, ice wine is nearly impossible to describe without an abundance of superlatives. And in Niagara, the worst ice wine is still pretty good. But, I'm saving ice wine for a future post.

What about the other wines? The dinner wines. Even there, Niagara's offerings generally range from the competent to the transcendent.

I've never been a big fan of chardonnay, I just don't enjoy the oak taste that is often strong in wines of that varietal. Niagara still offers a fair share of oaky chards, but rounds things out with a selection of steel aged chardonnays that are quite pleasant. One of the bigger wineries even offers the first chardonnay I've ever "had to have."* Other common whites are vidal, riesling and gewurztraminer. Though a lot of these get left for ice wine, the ones that are produced are often quite good.

The reds are where I really get on board. In past years it was cabernet sauvignon, but recently I fell for the cab francs. Both varietals are found in abundance, and both are well above you're typical store offering.

My favorites, though, were the rarer varietals. An old growth foch, some gamay, and baco noirs all seemed to catch my attention in recent visits. I've even found the occasionalofferingg of Pinot Noir.**

But the best part about Niagara is it's relatively undiscovered status as a wine destination. Yes, there a lot of wineries, and they get their share of visitors. But it's still not as well known outside the region. That means that at the right time of year you can have the wineries practically to yourself. Another advantage, the wineries are well marked.Alongg the wine trail it feels like you can't go 500 feet without finding another one. Some even offer lunch. Unlike some regions, a day of wine tasting in Niagara focuses on the tasting and not the drive between wineries.

Here at Geekwine we make an annual pilgrimage in the offseason, winter. Often, we have entire wineries to ourselves and gotten private tours from the winemaker. That means great service, more tastings, and getting to know the people that work there. It's like a private wine tasting.

Another advantage is lodging. Niagara in the winter is not a popular destination. It's cold and, well, cold.Thoughh, nothing a few glasses of wine can't fix. Those who don't mind staying in the burbs - a little out form both the garishness of the falls and quaintness of some of the other towns in the region - can find great deals on clean, comfortable rooms.Theyy may not have any character, but they're nice enough and cheap (we've gotten rooms for under $40 Canadian). Every dollar not spent on a room is that much more wine.

The Niagara region doesn't have the history of Bordeaux, or prestige of Napa. It doesn't even have the marketing of Long Island. If you know the region at all it's probably for their ice wines (which are considered by many to be the best offerings in the world). But a short visit will introduce you to quality wines, kind people, and a beautiful experience. And ice wine. Don't forget the ice wine.


For more information:
- Google Niagara peninsula wines.
- Visit the region's wine site for maps and winery descriptions: winesofontario.org/


* Names of specific wineries have been omitted from this post. Check this blog's individual wine reviews to find specific wines we've enjoyed.

** Pinot Noirs have been rare on the Canada side of Niagara. For a superb Pinot in the area - and here I break my own no names rule - I recommend Warm Lake Estates just across the river in the U.S. The combination of terroir and dedication to Pinot makes this a magnificent small find that will have you coming back for more.